Niacinamide vs Vitamin C: Which One Should You Use First?

Niacinamide vs Vitamin C: Which Should You Use First?

If you're building an effective skincare routine, chances are you've come across two of the most hyped ingredients: niacinamide and vitamin C. Both are praised for their brightening, anti-aging, and barrier-supporting benefits. But many ask: Can you use them together? And if so, which one should go first?

The answer lies in understanding how each ingredient works, how they interact, and how to layer them correctly for maximum results.

What Is Niacinamide?

Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin that helps visibly improve the appearance of enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, fine lines, and dullness. It’s well tolerated by most skin types—even sensitive ones—and strengthens the skin’s barrier by boosting ceramide production.

Key benefits of niacinamide:

Minimizes enlarged pores
Reduces redness and inflammation
Improves moisture retention
Strengthens skin’s protective barrier

A 2004 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that 5% niacinamide significantly improved skin elasticity and texture over 12 weeks.
Source: Draelos, Z.D., J Cosmet Dermatol. 2004.

What Is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid or its derivatives) is a potent antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical damage, helps fade dark spots, and stimulates collagen production. Unlike niacinamide, it’s slightly acidic and can be unstable if not properly formulated.

Key benefits of vitamin C:

Brightens skin and fades hyperpigmentation
Neutralizes oxidative stress from UV exposure
Boosts collagen production
Enhances sunscreen effectiveness

According to a review in the Indian Dermatology Online Journal, topical vitamin C improves fine wrinkles and pigmentation after 8–12 weeks of consistent use.
Source: Telang, P.S., Indian Dermatol Online J. 2013.

Can You Use Niacinamide and Vitamin C Together?

There was a long-standing myth in skincare circles that niacinamide and vitamin C “cancel each other out” or cause irritation when combined. This belief stemmed from outdated studies in the 1960s that involved unstable forms of vitamin C and high temperatures.

Modern dermatology confirms that niacinamide and vitamin C can be used together safely and effectively, especially when formulated correctly.

In fact, a study published in Experimental Dermatology (2000) showed that combining niacinamide and vitamin C can have a synergistic effect on improving skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation.

Which One Should You Apply First?

The general rule in skincare is to apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency. But pH and formulation matter too. Here's the best way to layer them:

1. If using a Vitamin C serum (L-ascorbic acid):

Apply vitamin C first on clean, dry skin.
Wait 30-60 seconds for it to absorb
Then apply your niacinamide serum.

This approach allows the lower pH of vitamin C to penetrate properly before introducing niacinamide, which functions at a more neutral pH.

2. If your Vitamin C is a derivative (e.g., sodium ascorbyl phosphate):

These are more stable and pH-neutral.
You can layer niacinamide and vitamin C in either order, or even use a combined serum if it's well-formulated.

Morning or Night?

Vitamin C is best used in the morning because it helps neutralize free radical damage from sun exposure and pollution, but can be used at night as well especially if you have dark spots or sun spots. Niacinamide can be used morning and night, making it a versatile ingredient.

Suggested routine:

AM: Cleanser → Vitamin C → Niacinamide → Moisturizer → Sunscreen
PM: Cleanser → Niacinamide → Retinol → Moisturizer

Are There Any Side Effects?

Vitamin C (especially L-ascorbic acid) may cause tingling or irritation in sensitive skin types.
Niacinamide is generally very well tolerated but may cause mild flushing in rare cases.

If you're new to these ingredients, introduce them one at a time, and use a patch test before full application.

Tips for Combining Niacinamide and Vitamin C

Start slow if you have sensitive skin. Use them on alternating mornings at first.
Look for dual serums with both ingredients in one formula—these are pH-balanced for compatibility.
Store vitamin C serums properly to prevent oxidation. Amber glass bottles and cool, dry storage extend shelf life.
Moisturize after application to lock in the benefits and minimize irritation.

Final Thoughts

Niacinamide and vitamin C are two of the most effective, scientifically-backed ingredients for brighter, smoother, and healthier skin. When layered correctly or used in well-formulated combinations, they complement each other beautifully.

If you’re looking to target hyperpigmentation, fine lines, or dullness, consider using vitamin C first, followed by niacinamide—especially in your morning routine. With consistency, you’ll see clearer, firmer skin without irritation.

Citations / Sources

Draelos, Z.D. (2004). Skin Care Benefits of Niacinamide. J Cosmet Dermatol.
Telang, P.S. (2013). Vitamin C in Dermatology. Indian Dermatol Online J.
Hakozaki, T., et al. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. Br J Dermatol.
Pinnell SR. (2003). Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection. J Am Acad Dermatol.
Experimental Dermatology, 2000 – Combination therapies with niacinamide and vitamin C